Sledging on a Sunday afternoon

More snow fell over the week-end so we took our toboggans up to the cross country skiing area just outside Super Besse which has an area reserved for sledging. Here are some pics.

The Auvergne Region of France : travel to a region of healing waters and landscapes | Web in France Magazine

The Auvergne Region of France : travel to a region of healing waters and landscapes | Web in France Magazine

Holiday Accommodation Auvergne

The Whole Truffade

I don’t know, sometimes I am just in the mood for a generous boost of carbohydrate. One of my favourite dishes to satisfy this urge is Truffade, a traditional French dish from the Auvergne region.

In fact, the inhabitants of the Auvergne have a saying:

‘if you can’t afford Truffles you indulge in Truffade’.

The Auvergne is the rural heart of France made up of mountains, plateaus, lakes, national parks and cows (yes, everywhere you look) and producer of several fine quality cheeses. One of these is Cantal which is one of the primary ingredients in Truffade (although sometimes St. Nectaire or even Gruyere can be used). The other main ingredient is potato, sliced a la dauphinoise and combined with the cheese to create a simple but very tasty and filling dish. Traditionally eaten with a green salad and cured meats and served directly form the pan this is a staple dish of most restaurants in the Auvergne, quick and easy to prepare, washed down with half a carafe of vin rouge. The type of cheese used will affect the taste so check with the restaurant first in case you prefer one type over another.

It is warming and filling; just what you need after a hard mornings skiing down the side of the Sancy Mountains. Believe me you will need an afternoons skiing to burn all the calories from your lunchtime repast.

Now, I am no great chef but this dish is well within my compass (along with Jumbalaya and Chilli Con Carne) and does not require a great deal of preparation (15 mins).

To serve 4 people you will need:

1,5 kg potatoes (waxy variety such as Cara or Charlotte)*, thinly sliced

30g Duck fat (traditional – use lard or vegetable oil if not available)

Garlic, finely chopped

400g Cantal , St. Nectaire or Gruyere if preferred, sliced

Salt & pepper

10 inch non-stick frying pan

* If you are unsure of which variety you have mix 1 part salt to 11 parts water in a measuring jug. Add the potato. A waxy potato will float (a floury potato will sink).

Method:

First melt the fat in the pan and add the chopped garlic. Fry for 1-2 minutes and then add the sliced potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove lid and cook for a further 20-25 minutes, stirring and tossing until the potatoes are tender and are starting to brown. Stir in the cheese and continue to cook on high until the base is browned – 3-4 minutes. Push down on the mixture occasionally to hold it together.

Serve with cured meats and green salad and a carafe (or two) of full bodied red wine.

Some recipes include sliced bacon or ‘lardons’ (about 150g) which you can fry along with the garlic and remove and add back with the cheese. You may also like to add chopped onions with the garlic.

Such simplicity, but what great reward! A treat for those of you who like your food rustic and hearty.

Whats the snow like?

Click here to see main web cam for Super Besse.

Why Ski Here?

Click here for French Property experts VEF's latest article on skiing in the Auvergne.

Trophée Andros

It’s freezing out there. The track is sheet ice! Perfect conditions then for the drivers competing for the Trophée Andros, a series of motor races which take place each December and January in some of Frances chillier locations. Rallying doesn’t get more extreme than this!



The races take place on specially created floodlit ice circuits and attract drivers from all types of driving disciplines. The symbiosis of highly skilled driver, nerveless navigation and finely tuned machine over some of the most testing of tracks provides a highly entertaining spectacle as the drivers push their machines to the limit. Unsurprisingly, this unique event brings out the crowds in large numbers despite the often sub-zero temperatures, who contribute to the uniquely Gallic atmosphere with strong vocal support for their favourite drivers. Spectators are warmed not only by the spectacular racing but by plenty of vin chaud and hot food. Even so you would be wise to equip yourself with a sizeable hip flask and some good silk underwear before venturing to the track.

King of the constructors is Toyota which with its Auris and Corolla cars has secured 16 victories out of 27 races since its debut in the 2006/7 season. The current Andros trophy champion is Toyotas quadruple F1 world champion, Alain Prost, who was also victorious in the 2006/7 season. However, Alain has some way to go to beat the most successful ice racer of all time, Yvan Muller, who has no less than ten championships to his name. Another driver from the world of F1 on Toyotas books is Olivier Panis who, whilst not as successful as Prost, regularly appears on the winner’s rostrum. Last seasons grand finale at the Stade de France was attended by over 62,000 spectators and saw Prost and Panis, who teamed up for this exhibition event, continuing their domination of the sport with yet another victory. No doubt then that the competition attracts some of the best drivers in the world.

For the technophiles among you the Auris “ice” is a four wheel drive four wheel steer model built around the Lexus RX 300 3 litre V6 rear mounted engine pumping out over 300 bhp. The lightweight glass fibre body sits over a rigid welded steel “cage”. Tyres are standard issue Continentals, with a tread only a few inches wide covered with hundreds of tiny steel studs for extra grip on the ice.

The climax of each season is always at Superbesse in the Puy de Dome region of the Auvergne, in the Sancy Mountains south west of Clermont Ferrand. This year’s event is on Saturday 31st January. There are two classes of car race, the top drivers competing in the Elite Class and the second tier of drivers competing in the Promotion Class. As well as the main car races there are also ‘Pilot’ bike races and the Trophée Andros Feminine in which teams of female drivers in tandem with their instructors compete for the championship in 600cc buggy style cars. Each victory is celebrated by car and bike riders alike showing off their skills at hand brake turns and wheelies, almost as spectacular as the racing itself.

Spills, thrills and skills. Not something you get every Saturday night. Well worth the admission price.

For somewhere to stay near the action visit my holiday rental site.

Whats on This Season

Click here for a list of some of the things going on in the Puy de Dome region of the Auvergne this winter.

Google Maps

Google Maps

Google map showing location of Superbesse

YouTube - Trophée Andros 2007/2008 Super-Besse

YouTube - Trophée Andros 2007/2008 Super-Besse

Mad, but fun to watch. This years race is on Saturday 31st January.

Yes, you can ski here too

No you do not have to travel to a far flung outpost of the world to experience ski-ing down a volcano! Just hop over to France and visit the Auvergne where hurtling down volcanic snow covered slopes is a very popular pastime.

The Auvergne is home to the ‘Monts Dome’, a range of mountains located to the south west of Clermont Ferrand, made up of over 80 volcanoes which became extinct less than 4000 years ago. This stunning terrain has several high peaks (known as Puys) with the imposing Puy de Dome overlooking Clermont Ferrand reaching 1465m and the Puy de Sancy an impressive 1886m, the highest peak in France outside of the Alps and Pyrenees.

The two main classified ski-centres of Superbesse and Le Mont Dore are located on the south and north side of the Puy du Sancy respectively and are linked to form an overall ski terrain of 85km. The ski pass (7 days €135 per adult, €94.60 per child in high season – 2008/9) covers both resorts. In December 2008 a new cable car will open in Superbesse improving access to the summit; the Puy de la Perdix (1850m). The smaller resort of Chastreix-Sancy is located on the west side of the Puy de Sancy which has 16km of slopes. This is not linked to the two main resorts.

Several smaller resorts combine with the above to form the Grandes Espaces d’Auvergne, where you will find over 200km of downhill pistes and 900km of cross country pistes. The region is best suited to beginners and intermediate level skiers and is an excellent place to learn to ski. The 2008/9 ski season runs from 1st December to 26th April.

The Auvergne ski resorts are very much geared towards the family. The main resorts all have ski schools catering for all levels of ability. Superbesse and Le Mont Dore both have nursery ski clubs (Piou Piou) where children from 4 years old can learn to ski in a separate domain away from the main slopes. For younger children there is a nursery at Superbesse catering for children from 3 months old.

Access to Superbesse and Le Mont Dore is via car (arrive early to ensure a space) or for those wishing to arrive minus the stress of hunting for a car parking space via the free snow shuttle buses which run frequently from Besse and Le Mont Dore to the foot of the slopes.

Apart from downhill or cross country skiing there is a wealth of other winter activities available in the area. You can try tubbing (hurtling down the mountain on a tyre inner tube!), sledging, ice-skating, snow-kiting, ice climbing, winter quad biking, dog sledding or speed ski-ing to name but a few. All of these (outdoor) activities have their own dedicated safe areas.

A great way to explore the snow covered landscape is by taking one of the many snow shoe trails. You can take off on your own (equipment is available for hire) to discover the area at your own pace via the marked trails or take advantage of the services of a mountain guide. Half day or full day excursions are offered as well as night trips with a meal and overnight stay in a farm or mountain ‘buron’.

Accommodation in the area is plentiful and varied with a good choice of hotels, bed and breakfast and self catering houses, chalets or apartments. Away from the resorts accommodation is cheaper and several agencies in the area have a good choice of holiday rentals within 10-20 minutes drive of the slopes.

There is a good choice of restaurants in and around the ski centres to suit all tastes and budgets. Traditional Auvergne dishes include truffade, a carbohydrate laden feast of potatoes, cheese and cured meats which is an ideal meal after a hard day on the mountains, and aligot, garlic mashed potato usually served with French sausages. Of course lighter meals are available but the emphasis is on traditional country fare, typical of this predominantly agricultural region.

Throughout the winter season a number of special events are held. From 29th December to 2nd January Superbesse is hosting ‘Nordic Week’ showcasing typical Scandinavian winter activities such as dog sledding, biathlon and Nordic cross country ski-ing. The ‘Sancy Snow Dog’ a dog sledding race takes place over the week-end of the 3rd and 4th of January in Le Mont Dore. On 31st January Superbesse hosts one of the famous ‘Trophee Andros’ series of races in which cars compete over a circuit made entirely of solid ice. Not for the faint hearted! And between 12th and 21st February is the ‘Sancy Snow Jazz Festival’ featuring New Orleans and traditional live jazz playing in bars, restaurants and discotheques. These and many other events help to make a winter visit to the Auvergne a unique experience.

Access to the area from the UK is via the channel ports (approximately 7 hours drive from Calais) or by air via Paris to Clermont Ferrand. The nearest airport with direct flights to the UKLimoges, approximately 2 drive hours to the west of Clermont Ferrand.