MUROL.FR

MUROL.FR

My home towns website.

The Four Seasons of the Auvergne

The Auvergne is one of Frances best kept secrets. Yet it is hardly hidden away in some distant corner. On the contrary, you will find it bang in the middle of the country as bold a brass saying ‘look at me, here I am, come and have a look around!. So why, so far, has this beautiful area of France remained largely unnoticed by the British, who would seemingly rather travel around or through the area to holiday in the more populous, and far more crowded, regions further south. The French love it, and descend in numbers for their annual holidays.

So, why go there? Perhaps for the stunning beauty and variety of its landscape, from the vast fertile plains of the Allier in the North to the unique volcanic peaks of the Puy de Dome and Cantal departments together with its many rivers and lakes the Auvergne deserves its reputation as one of the most beautiful places in France.

The Auvergne is home to the ‘Monts Dome’, a range of mountains located to the south west of Clermont Ferrand, made up of over 80 volcanoes which became extinct less than 4000 years ago. This stunning terrain has several high peaks (known as Puys) with the imposing Puy de Dome overlooking Clermont Ferrand reaching 1465m and the Puy de Sancy an impressive 1886m, the highest peak in France outside of the Alps and Pyrenees.

Most visitors enjoy the region in the high summer and winter (for skiing) but the area really does offer something for the tourist all year round.

Spring

Ahh… the snows have melted on the higher ground and the true beauty of the landscape is revealed as the trees emerge from their winter torpor and start to re-gain their healthy green complexion. And of course the blossom is out in force decorating the landscape with a palette of many colours. Life is breathed back into the countryside and the terrain becomes a sea of green once more, enhancing the many panoramic views which greet you, seemingly at every turn.

This season is excellent for walking. From the casual ramble to the more serious hike the area provides a multitude of choice along the many marked tracks and paths. The weather is pleasant and generally warm although do not discount the possibility of the occasional thunderstorm on the higher ground where you may also find the last pockets of snow clinging to the hillsides.

Cyclists are also well catered for. Road cyclists can tackle the challenging mountainous regions (the Auvergne hosted two stages of the Tour de France in 2008) as well as the gentler plains of the Limagne region bordering River Allier. Off road enthusiasts have an abundant choice of marked trails and woodland tracks to explore.

Summer

This is obviously the most popular season with holidaymakers and as such is the busiest time of the year. However, compared to other French regions the area does not feel as crowded and getting about is fairly easy – but you must have a car.

With the summer foliage in full bloom the area plays host to a variety of tourists, not only the enthusiastic rambler or cyclist but also lovers of many other outdoor activities such as rock climbing, hang gliding, horse riding, fishing…the list is seemingly endless. Of course these activities are not limited to the summer alone and many outdoor pursuit enthusiasts prefer to visit in the spring or autumn when the climate is more suited to their sport, it is less crowded and the scenery is none the less stunning.

For the family visitor there are many excellent campsites, most of which have a high standard of facilities. Although the area does not have a coastline there are many beautiful lakes to enjoy, most of which have a beach and dedicated and well patrolled swimming areas. Of course, for such a popular tourist area there is a plentiful supply of decent hotels, gites and rental accommodation to choose from. Many are less expensive than other areas of France, perhaps contributing to the areas popularity with the French.

Autumn

There are no shortage of trees in the Auvergne. The Domainal Forest of Troncais in the Allier, covers over 27,000 acres and is the largest oak forest in Europe. But even this is dwarfed by the vast ‘La Chataigneraie’ area of the Cantal which boasts over 500,000 acres of chestnut trees. With so many trees and so many panoramic views you would expect the Auvergne to offer one of the best places in Europe to see the autumn colours. You will know, of course, the rich diversity of colours which this season can display and the region is perfect to experience such arboreal beauty at this time of year.

The climate is generally milder than the UK making conditions ideal for travelling by car, foot or bike to view this wonderful spectacle.

Winter

To the average ski enthusiast the Auvergne is not an area associated with skiing. However, although not anywhere near as vast as the Alps, the area does have three decent sized ski resorts with some very good facilities.

The two main classified ski-centres of Superbesse and Le Mont Dore are located on the south and north side of the Puy du Sancy respectively and are linked to form an overall ski terrain of 85km. In December 2008 a new cable car opened in Superbesse improving access to the summit; the Puy de la Perdix (1850m). The other major ski centre is Le Liorian in the Cantal which offers 40 downhill runs and several kilometres of cross country ski trails.

Several smaller resorts combine with the above to form the Grandes Espaces d’Auvergne, where you will find over 200km of downhill pistes and 900km of cross country pistes. The region is best suited to beginners and intermediate level skiers and is an excellent place to learn to ski.

The Auvergne, a place for all seasons with a surprising variety of landscape and activities in one place. Why not give it a try?

The 20th Sancy Snow Jazz Festival in Auvergne

Sancy Snow Jazz - 12th - 20th February.

Packed bars with excellent music. A good time to visit.

Auvergne - Super Besse

Auvergne - Super Besse
Originally uploaded by laurentp_ap

Now where did I put those skis?

Sledging on a Sunday afternoon

More snow fell over the week-end so we took our toboggans up to the cross country skiing area just outside Super Besse which has an area reserved for sledging. Here are some pics.

The Auvergne Region of France : travel to a region of healing waters and landscapes | Web in France Magazine

The Auvergne Region of France : travel to a region of healing waters and landscapes | Web in France Magazine

Holiday Accommodation Auvergne

The Whole Truffade

I don’t know, sometimes I am just in the mood for a generous boost of carbohydrate. One of my favourite dishes to satisfy this urge is Truffade, a traditional French dish from the Auvergne region.

In fact, the inhabitants of the Auvergne have a saying:

‘if you can’t afford Truffles you indulge in Truffade’.

The Auvergne is the rural heart of France made up of mountains, plateaus, lakes, national parks and cows (yes, everywhere you look) and producer of several fine quality cheeses. One of these is Cantal which is one of the primary ingredients in Truffade (although sometimes St. Nectaire or even Gruyere can be used). The other main ingredient is potato, sliced a la dauphinoise and combined with the cheese to create a simple but very tasty and filling dish. Traditionally eaten with a green salad and cured meats and served directly form the pan this is a staple dish of most restaurants in the Auvergne, quick and easy to prepare, washed down with half a carafe of vin rouge. The type of cheese used will affect the taste so check with the restaurant first in case you prefer one type over another.

It is warming and filling; just what you need after a hard mornings skiing down the side of the Sancy Mountains. Believe me you will need an afternoons skiing to burn all the calories from your lunchtime repast.

Now, I am no great chef but this dish is well within my compass (along with Jumbalaya and Chilli Con Carne) and does not require a great deal of preparation (15 mins).

To serve 4 people you will need:

1,5 kg potatoes (waxy variety such as Cara or Charlotte)*, thinly sliced

30g Duck fat (traditional – use lard or vegetable oil if not available)

Garlic, finely chopped

400g Cantal , St. Nectaire or Gruyere if preferred, sliced

Salt & pepper

10 inch non-stick frying pan

* If you are unsure of which variety you have mix 1 part salt to 11 parts water in a measuring jug. Add the potato. A waxy potato will float (a floury potato will sink).

Method:

First melt the fat in the pan and add the chopped garlic. Fry for 1-2 minutes and then add the sliced potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove lid and cook for a further 20-25 minutes, stirring and tossing until the potatoes are tender and are starting to brown. Stir in the cheese and continue to cook on high until the base is browned – 3-4 minutes. Push down on the mixture occasionally to hold it together.

Serve with cured meats and green salad and a carafe (or two) of full bodied red wine.

Some recipes include sliced bacon or ‘lardons’ (about 150g) which you can fry along with the garlic and remove and add back with the cheese. You may also like to add chopped onions with the garlic.

Such simplicity, but what great reward! A treat for those of you who like your food rustic and hearty.